52 Journeys, Australia: No 1, Brumbies | Snowy Mountains, Part 2
Call me crazy but just one week after my first visit to see the brumbies in the Snowy Mountains, I headed back. What was even crazier was the time frame – I had only a weekend to do it, driving six hours each day there and back. Why? I’d been bitten, well and truly, by something far more powerful than any critter – obsession. I was smitten with the high country and the brumbies, and was desperate to go back. This time Coco stayed put and I took a willing friend instead, an artist who was keen to see the landscape for herself.
We left Sydney at 8am on a Saturday to arrive just in time for lunch at a pub in Jugiong, half an hour before Gundagai, called The Sir George. Again I had a National Parks and Wildlife guide to thank for the recommendation – “They’ve just got it right, it’s worth stopping for”, the guide had said.
And she was right. I met one of the owners, Kim, who together with his partner and her daughter, has given the old pub a new lease of life, as well as German chef, Sebastian, who has the best tattoo ever for a cookie and some amazing skills in the kitchen – the food is really good.
The Sir George has been given the royal treatment by Kim and his partner
Sebastian and his chef tattoo
Aside from Kim and Sebastian, I also met baby Arlo and his parents at The Sir George. They moved from Sydney to Wagga Wagga a few years ago, to enjoy the benefits regional centres offer. Tree and sea change intrigue me (I don’t think I could ever do it but I can see the appeal). Apparently internal migration to regional NSW, Victoria and Queensland is at its highest in 10 years, which isn’t surprising considering the cost of living in Australia’s major cities. Anyway, turns out Arlo’s mum, Amelia, is a 52 Suburbs fan! Small world.
built in 1845, brought back to life in 2016
baby Arlo and his mum
Kim and his goats
those eyes
After lunch we hightailed it up the mountain only to find ourselves shrouded in freezing swirls of mist and cloud. Having endured a huge storm that morning and without any shelter to retreat to, the brumbies were soaked through. If this was spring, how tough must winter be? It made me wonder at the brumbies ability to survive such an extreme environment.
white out
after the storm
moody mountains
mane man
please don’t go near the road little wallaby/kangaroo
where the wild things grow
The next day the high country was bathed in full sunshine, which for photography is never great – sunlight is good at the very beginning and end of the day when the light is softer but for a large proportion of the time it’s too harsh. So when I spied a horse carriage parked by the side of the highway around midday, I was half thinking I wouldn’t bother stopping – but I wanted to know what it was like to ride in the park, both for horse and rider, with wild horses around. As harsh as the light was, I managed to photograph Tom and his wife Sue by exposing for their faces and blowing the backgrounds out.
They were up for the day from Tumut to enjoy the freedom of riding without gates everywhere in Kosciusko National Park. We only spent about half an hour together but I loved meeting these guys. Tom, who works as a manager on a farm, exudes calm and it was obvious by the gentle way he treated Missy that he has a deep love and respect for horses, wild or otherwise.
And what was it like riding among wild horses? No problem, Tom said, they were curious about one another but that was about it.
Tom and Missy. “We love the freedom of riding up here.”
“She’s a real sook, she’d fall asleep in my arms.”
carefree vs cared for
Of course Kosciusko National Park also attracts people who have nothing to do with horses, such as bike riders and fly fishers.
long distance cyclists, Caroline and Chris
they must be fit to get up these hills
and fly fishers too
With a six hour drive ahead of us, we left the high country around 2.30pm, stopping only to refuel at Gundagai.
I’m guessing long gone
main drag of Gundagai
old Gundagai
It had been a ridiculously brief trip – I wouldn’t recommend anything less than three days if you’re coming from Sydney – and I left knowing that wouldn’t be my last journey to the Snowies.
Great photos as always Louise. I’ll look forward to seeing your next blog,
Thanks very much Jenny. It’ll be along, at some point!
Nailed it Louise. Just love these and your storytelling. Hungering for more.
Thanks Gaylie! I’ll be back, soon… x
Thank you for the beautiful photos of the brumbies. My daughter made us drove there last year to see them , but we did not get a chance to.
My pleasure Joyce, I’m glad I could take you and your daughter there in a virtual sense at least.
I hadn’t realised how much I had missed your beautiful photography!
That’s very kind, thanks Pat. On that note, I didn’t realise how much I missed blogging. As much as I adore my camera, I also really love words and writing.
Beautiful photos and great yarn Louise !
Thanks Jenny! Glad you enjoyed the story – not too long winded though?! I looked back on the words and wondered if I could/should be more concise in my story telling.
A Happy Return. Great to have you back.
Thanks so much Frederick.
Just wondering where did you spot the Brumbies? We went down a few weeks ago… and saw lots of evidence but no actual horses!
Hmm, that’s curious. As I mentioned, they can be elusive but it’s weird you didn’t see a single horse. I saw them off to the side of the highway. The best time to see them is early morning or later afternoon, like around 5pm onwards. Hope you get the chance to go again Nicole!
I’ve only been to the Snowy Mountains once – in the school holidays with my parents. It was so cold, but not snowing, which was disappointing, as I’d never seen snow. My sister and I were so thrilled to see packed snow on the side of the mountain (we were from Brisbane) that we got out of the car and slid down it on our raincoats. That was the late 60s, early 70s, so I don’t know how much it would’ve changed since then. My uncle worked on the Snowy Mountain Scheme, so we wanted to see the place because of that as well.
I’d love to go back for a visit, and to see the Brumbies. I saw some wild Brumbies on a drive to Poona, on the Fraser Coast in Queensland. I wasn’t expecting them there, so that was a real thrill. If I was a horse, I’d much rather be free than pampered… Your photos show just how much joy the wild Brumbies have living like horses were meant to live. Thanks for sharing.
Cindy, I hope you can go again and see the brumbies and snow at the same time! And I can imagine the look on your faces, two girls from Brisbane, as you played in the snow. How lovely.