India, Part 1 – Varanasi
You know how I’ve just started a new project to explore Australia? Well, months before I decided to do that, I booked a quick trip to India. It felt a bit weird to be hiving off to the sub-continent when I have so much of my own continent to suss out. But I’d paid for the flights and it had been years since I’d visited (in 2012 for 52 Suburbs Around the World). Coco wasn’t keen (“I’ll get sick with all the pollution, mum”) so I invited a good friend, Tania, and headed off there in early January.
In a last minute change to our two week itinerary we decided to make our first stop Varanasi, somewhere I’ve never been. The well-priced hotel we’d been recommended was booked out so we decided to hell with the mortgage and splurged on a former royal residence, Brijrama Palace. It was right on the Ganges river and looked like something straight out of a storybook. But the way we arrived at the hotel turned out to be just as memorable – after a one hour drive from the airport we were transported by boat along the Ganges for the final part of the journey. As a result my first view of Varanasi, one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, was of ancient fortress-like buildings and temples towering above massive stone ghats (steps) that line the holy river. In that 20 minute boat ride I felt like I travelled back thousands of years to the time Varanasi began.
time travel
Bhonsale Ghat, built in 1780
On the Ganges
biblical scene save for the striped trackies and the mobile phone
It was during this bewitching introduction to Varanasi that I also had my first sighting of the famous ‘burning ghat’, Manikarnika, an open air crematorium. If you’re a Hindu, being cremated beside mother Ganga is the ultimate way to leave the earth, as it releases you from a never-ending cycle of reincarnation. As a non-Hindu Westerner who’s only ever thought of cremation as something that happens behind closed doors, it’s a pretty wild sight to behold.
the ‘burning ghat’, Manikarnika
Not long after that our boat pulled into a ghat and we were ushered up steep steps. A young priest dressed head to toe in deep saffron dabbed sandalwood paste on my forehead while chanting quietly before guiding us into a tiny lift that took us up to the Brijrama Palace hotel. Built in the early 1900s as a royal residence, the palace became derelict decades later; it took almost 20 years to restore it to its current glorious state, complete with unexpected modern conveniences such as the lift and wifi.
Brijrama Palace hotel at Darbhanga Ghat
The inside of the palace hotel was intimate and warm despite being constructed mainly from stone – it felt like a luxurious mini castle with decorative columns and flourishes. But the view from the common verandah was what I really loved, with its bird’s-eye view right up and down the Ganges and across to the other side (which is completely submerged during the monsoon season).
Varanasi
interior of Brijrama Palace hotel
The challenge in India, like any fascinating and highly photogenic place, is trying to work out where best to spend your limited time – in Varanasi we had just two nights which meant really only one full day. We opted for both the morning and evening rituals called aarti and a three hour walking tour of the old city. All good but lengthy and in hindsight I wished I’d seen only one aarti and then done my own exploring – one’s own aimless amble is infinitely better for photography! I also would have devoted more time to just walking along the ghats observing the pilgrims or on the river looking back at the incredible architecture. As it was I spent relatively little time doing both and feel like there is so much more to photograph. I have to go back one day!
offering of fire to goddess Ganga – evening aarti
pilgrims and tourists watching the evening aarti
Chet Singh Ghat fort
demolition of part of old Varanassi – to make way for a pilgrims’ path
chai in the back lanes of old Varanasi
holy cow in the holy city
After breakfast on our last day I had just one hour before we had to leave to take last minute photos – hardly ideal but better than nothing. As I snapped the flock of birds swirling outside on the verandah, I noticed a single file of monks on the ghats below. I got down there as quickly as I could and met one of the Thai monks, sitting with a local holy man.
a constant swirl of birds
holy men – the Thai monk and the Indian sadhu (or not)
a stream of monks beside the river
Our guide had explained that most ‘holy men’ like this one are not true sadhus but rather tourist attractions for photographers. Fake or not they look pretty fabulous with enough adornment to rival the elephant god Ganesha.
fake or for real – a Sadhu
Ganesha
With the little time I had left I photographed some of the pilgrims who come to bathe in the Ganges – Hindus believe the holy river will purify their sins, despite the fact the water is polluted.
rubbing mustard oil on their bodies before taking the plunge in Mother Ganga
worshiped for its purifying powers despite the pollution
washing away their sins
saffron is the most sacred colour for Hindus, in the water…
…or out
I reluctantly drew myself away from the river to go back to the hotel to check out. I was so glad we’d done that last minute change to include Varanasi but two nights was way too quick – I felt like I needed at least a week to explore and photograph this fascinating city.
We left the way we arrived, by boat floating along the goddess Ganga.
bird lovers flock to Varanasi too to see the migratory Siberian birds
ancient feel despite the advertising
Varanasi, Venice of the east
Stay tuned for India, Part 2!
early morning shoot on the Ganges – I’m rugged up because it’s only 10˚C (iPhone pic by Tania)
Louise! These are the most beautiful photographs. You are amazing and i can’t wait for Part 2. Lots of love RB xx
Oh thanks RB! So happy you enjoyed them. Part 2 coming soon… xx
These photos are all so incredibly beautiful
Thank you Marcia, that’s very kind.
I don’t remember so many birds but the photos are amazing
Re the birds… as far as I understand, many of the birds you see in Varanasi are on a ‘summer vacation’ – the seagulls, for example, apparently migrate all the way from Siberia around November and head back March/April. I know you were there in October so they wouldn’t have been there then.
Louise, so stunning! There is just something about how you see the world – love love love!!!
Thanks Gemma! Very happy you love them so much. India does make it pretty easy though – so much wonder to shoot.
Fabulous Lou!
Beautiful, insightful pics & narrative.
Thanks Stu! India is so inspiring. If only it was easier for Western stomachs to travel there safely…
Hi Louise, love the colours and light and shadows. You’ve captured so brilliantly. Can’t wait to see what you take in Australia. I’m Australian so I’m intrigued to see what subject matter sparks your interest and how you capture the light there.
Have the best time! 🙂
Thanks very much Angela. And yes, I can’t wait to get stuck into my own country – but I might have to – finding the time to dedicate to exploring such a vast place is tricky. But I’m so keen.
Gorgeous photos- i am aiming to visit next January so you have made me extremely excited. I am a Geography and Economics teacher so absolutely fascinated by Varanasi and India as a whole.
So glad I could fuel your excitement Elizabeth! You’re going to love it, especially with your particular knowledge and interests. Report back please!
Oh Louise.
How wonderful to open my emails and see this one from you. India….. photographer’s paradise I would imagine.
Your shots are exquisite as they always are. Might you do a mini India book???
Please do let me know if you do.
India really is a photographer’s paradise – the challenge is not to feel overwhelmed by how much there is to photograph and to somehow capture it differently from all the other millions of images of India. That and staying well (ugh, see my next post!) I’m so happy you like the images and I’ll definitely let you know if I produce a book!
Stunning photos as always. It’s great to have you back in my inbox 🙂
Thanks so much Stephen and it’s great to be back; I love the blog format – Instagram is great but it’s so satisfying to produce a longer, more in-depth experience for people.
absolutely incredible photos. you’ve inspired me to travel to India!
Job done – I love inspiring people to travel. It’s one of the best ways to spend our limited time on this amazing planet. Report back please!
My darling niece/you have done it again..magnificent photos and shame you only had limited time in this wonderful place…waiting for number two..you’re amazing Lou..Barb
Thanks Auntie Barb! You would’ve loved it too – I can see you gliding down the Ganges, taking it all in. x
Great to see your beautiful photos again in my inbox Louise! Stunning shots ??
Thanks Fiona. And I’m so glad it was a welcome sight in your inbox – I know people get so many emails these days and I’d hate to think they view mine as yet another chore!
Lovely to see you back!
Hey lady! Thank you, good to be back.
These are very good! The way you have adjusted the lighting and contrast give the photos a three dimensional effect. And the dusty, smokey distance: always a part of India. Hope the cuisine did not upset you too much. Keep Well, Frederick H
Thanks Frederick. I agree, a few of the images definitely do look 3d – I didn’t do anything especially tricky with editing, I think it’s the fact the foreground subjects really pop against that smokey background. And I’m afraid the cuisine while delicious was quite problematic! I’ll tell the sorry tale in Part 2.
Hi Louise. I just love these photos. You are so clever! I’ve been to India twice but not to Varanasi. Looks like a Mecca for photographers ( if you’ll pardon the mixing of two religions). Could you add me to your mailing list please ? My daughter Gemma (another travel fanatic) sent me this one. Look forward to more. Best wishes Margaret Haigh
Thank you Margaret! I’ve just added you to the mailing list so stay tuned for more India…
So amazing! Well done Louise!
What gear and lens do you use to take these amazing shots if you don’t mind me asking?
Thanks Aaron. Camera is a Canon 5D Mkiii and the long lens I used for most of these images is a 70-200mm L series Canon. Otherwise a 50mm 1.2 or a 24-70 2.8, all Canon L series.
I had a week in Varanasi several years ago. I loved it and would love to go back. It is my favourite Indian city. Wonderful photos Louise, that really capture the feel of the place.
You had a whole week! How great, that’s what you need in a place as interesting as Varanasi. And I agree, it’s my favourite city too – I haven’t explored much of India really, just Rajasthan, but I suspect even if I could see everywhere, that Varanasi would still be my favourite.
Wow! If you ever tire of photography I think you could move into tourism – so keen to get to India now, and that’s without Part 2. Beautiful pics. Great words. Thank you for sharing!
Ha! So glad you enjoyed the post and are motivated to go now – India is really so extraordinary. If you do end up going please report back, I’d love to hear what you think of it.
Absolutely stunning photos! Love the candid shots and the beautiful light (even if it is pollution). Makes me want to pack my bags now.
Thanks Janie – I really hope you get to go but in the meantime I’m glad I was able to provide a virtual India experience at least!
Oh Louise, such brilliant photos of this incredible place, the way you’ve captured the early morning light on these ancient buildings and the seeming serenity of what is such a congested and polluted environment shows your creativity and brilliance behind the lens.
Thank you so much for sharing these amazing photos, I remember how you caught the community spirit of our street party in Alexandria and the atmospheric shots of my house in your first book.
Great to see more of your work, I look forward to part 2 of India.
Hello John! I remember you and your house well. And that great street party! So glad you’re still following me and my journey, and that you’ve enjoyed these images of incredible Varanasi. Stay tuned for more India…
My most favourite country. I remember when you came back from India (?) and visited Kil in Melbourne with all these beautiful silver items for sale. I thought you were the most wild boho woman I had ever met! Glad you were back in that amazing country.
Oh yes, the silver jewellery! That was a fun adventure. Did you buy the gorgeous silver goddess Durga pendant?! x
I still have my silver snake bracelet & think of you when I look at it Louie! Sending love, Xe
Eliza! Talk about a blast from the past. How great to see your smiling face. So good you still have that bracelet – I was trying to think if I’d kept mine or not. We should all have a Newtown reunion… x
❤
🙂
I have included your blog in INTERESTING BLOGS in FRIDAY FOSSICKING at
https://thatmomentintime-crissouli.blogspot.com/2019/03/friday-fossicking-1st-march-2019.html
Thanks, Chris
So glad to see you back, wonderful photos as always..
Thanks Chris!
Lovely surprise in my inbox and such beautiful atmospheric photos full of colour. Thanks Louise
Thanks Gill, so glad you enjoyed it.
Gorgeous and fascinating. Thank you.
It’s pretty wild isn’t it? I’m already plotting how I can get back there!
Very evocative photos! Thank you for sharing. I’ve been to India twice and the COLOURS are so amazing and vibrant! Cheers from Ruth
The colours are incredible aren’t they? And the way Indians mix colours and patterns, either consciously or not, is just as impressive.
Your photos of Varanasi are incredible and the post equally inspiring. Varanasi is one of my favourite cities and I feel the best time to go there is during Dev Deepali. This is the night the gods ( dev) come down to earth from heaven to celebrate Diwali( festival of lights). It’s usually in November but since it’s based on the Lunar calendar it could change every year. Next time do visit Sarnath where Buddha made his first sermon. And the silk ( banarsi) weavers is another must see. To stay I would recommend The Ganges View on Assi Ghat. It’s my favourite hotel in Varanasi and also Fiona Caulfield’s ( author of Love Travel Guides)!
Namaste!
Thanks Kanchan, I’ll take your advice and visit if I can during Dev Deepali – all the little lights floating on the Ganges must be an incredible sight. Re The Ganges View, that was the hotel we wanted to stay in that was booked out – next time I hope to stay there. Namaste.