52 Journeys, Australia: No 3, Lord Howe Island
Earlier this year I had the opportunity to visit one of the most beautiful places in the world, Lord Howe Island. I went there to photograph one of the guest houses and fell madly in love with it.
As I wrote on Instagram not long after, it’s “the way the little island makes you feel – incredibly lucky to be dropped onto a tiny spec in the middle of the big blue sea where nature dominates and humans are allowed to come and marvel at it all. No stress, few people, virtually no cars and beauty absolutely everywhere.”
the lagoon and reef
After flying 600km over nothing but ocean for two hours, my first sighting of Lord Howe from the air is one I’ll never forget. Its fiery, volcanic beginnings around seven million years ago has produced a rugged landscape of spectacular steep cliffs rising out of a brilliant turquoise sea. Two incredibly dramatic twin peaks, Mount Gower and Mount Lidgbird, dominate the southern end of the crescent-shaped island which curves around a sparkling lagoon and coral reef. As you’re flying over all this before descending onto the famously short runway, you can’t help thinking, wow, so the hype is real!
It doesn’t take long before you settle into some sort of routine on the island. I started most days before work with a hike up Malabar Hill at the north end of the island to see the sunrise.
looking down from Malabar Hill to Ned’s Beach
Standing on top of Malabar Hill, you can see right down to the Admiralty Islands, a small group of volcanic formations where divers go to explore pristine turquoise waters and beautiful coral reefs. In order to photograph birds like the Red tailed tropicbirds and Sooty Terns flying around down below, I had to lean right out over the cliff’s edge. On my own, without any sort of fence to stop you falling, I scared myself half to death as I got bolder and bolder, until finally I was far enough out to be able to capture the scene below me.
Sooty terns circling around the clifftops
the Admiralty Islands
Unlike everywhere else in Australia, there are no poisonous spiders on the island (or snakes) but there are plenty of Golden Orb Weaving spiders who weave massive sticky webs across pathways.
Despite knowing they’re not a risk I still found myself shrieking and ducking madly to avoid walking headfirst into them!
Golden Orb Weaving spiders
scary looking but harmless
On the way down from Malabar Hill one day I was delighted by all the Sooty Terns wheeling around. Against a background of the ancient volcanic peaks, Mount Gower and Mount Lidgbird, the birds look almost prehistoric, like pterodactyls, the flying reptiles from eons ago.
a prehistoric land
Sooty tern
As I said before, the way the island makes you feel is what I remember most vividly months after being there – completely relaxed, ‘unheady’ and healthy. To start with, there is limited Wi-Fi and mobile phone coverage on the island so you literally switch off and stop reaching for your phone all the time. It gives your addicted brain a break from the constant stream of information you usually feed it and helps you get out of your head and into your body more, which is kind of blissful for the overthinkers amongst us!
The second thing that helps you feel so good is the fact you get around by bike. Every morning after I’d finished my shoot at the guesthouse, I’d put my cossie on, jump on my bike and head to a beach or cove to swim and snorkel. After a while I’d get back on the bike and ride to another beach or inlet. By the end of the day I might have explored three or four beautiful little places on my trusty blue bike, which meant that after a week of doing so, I felt not just relaxed but also physically great and definitely more fit.
healthy life
The lack of crowds on the island also makes for a relaxing time – the local population is around 380 and visitor numbers are restricted to just 400 at any one time. For most of us who live in crowded cities, constantly surrounded by people, it’s such a luxury to ride around without seeing anyone for ages or relax on one of the smaller beaches without a single other soul. And with so few people you’re able to fully immerse yourself in the island’s incredible natural world, which we know is so good for us but is often hard to do.
far from the maddening crowds – the pontoon on the lagoon
even when it’s overcast, it’s beautiful
That said, after an afternoon of ‘quiet time’ on my own, I did love meeting up with people I’d met on the island to have a drink at the cool little Crooked Post bar, right across from the lagoon, or dinner at one of the great restaurants, such as Anchorage, Driftwood or Sunset Bar & Grill (which by the way, you need to book beforehand, preferably weeks if not months in advance).
Other dining options include cooking your own if you’re staying in a self-catering guesthouse (you can buy groceries in a few stores on the island) or dinner on-site at some of the higher end places. You can also DIY on one of many BBQs on the island which are stacked daily with new wood for your grilling pleasure.
Anchorage Restaurant, which is right across the way from…
…The Crooked Post
Looking at these images now I’m struck by the lack of pretension; there are no big fancy resorts or restaurants and the architecture is all low-key ‘island’ style, with lots of natural materials such as stone and timber. I reckon this is yet another reason why the island makes you feel so calm and relaxed.
stone and coral wall
So that was my ‘feel good’ week on Lord Howe, a mix of business and so much pleasure. If you’ve been lucky enough to visit the island, I’d love to hear about your experience of it. Until next I post (which will be soon, and about another island!).
last light
Hello Louise
I have missed your gorgeous blogs and fab eye for photography.
I too was in absolute awe of Lord Howe Island. Went there a few years ago for a wedding annivesary… what a top spot and its part of NSW right!
I described it as a Truman show… just too perfect in every way.
Mother nature rules in this beautiful nook.
xx Nikki
Oh Nikki, that makes my day that you’ve missed me! My sensitive creative little soul thanks you so much for saying. And so glad you know the joy of LHI, which yes, is definitely part of NSW.
Love your photos Louise.
Thanks Marcia, so glad you like them 🙂
Thank you for sharing this beautiful photo set and travel log. I have been fascinated by Lord Howe and this is my first glimpse of it! Some day, I’d love to visit. Thank you again for bringing these beautiful scenes to us.
Ros, you’re very welcome! I’m so happy I could provide a virtual visit to this incredible place for you. It’s why I put the effort into putting a blog post together, to share the beauty of the world. Thanks so much for letting me know.
Hi Louise,
I got such a thrill when I saw your email for a new blog in my inbox! And Lord Howe! –somewhere I really wanted to go in the 80s, but never did. I see now what I was missing out on.
The photos of surrounding nature are, of course, beautiful – and that stone and coral wall is such a joy to behold. What a wonderfully creative use of the local materials.
I’m glad you’re back. Looking forward to the next treat…
Cindy, that’s so great that my email gave you a thrill! And to a place you’ve always wanted to go. Job done! (And I agree, the stone and coral wall is such a lovely idea.) Thanks for commenting 🙂
Superb! I too have missed your delicious photos that open my mind to possibilities!
Hope there will be more soon.
Oh thanks very much Deb! Mind opening is good 🙂
Great to hear/see from you again. Yes, people still read blogs, especially if they are as good as yours.
Peter, that’s good to hear! And thank you, that’s very kind. Just the sort of encouragement I need to press on!
So glad to hear from you, hear about your journeys and see your work again. Thank you. What a highlight to my day!
I do miss the 52 suburbs/cities side by side style:)
Mark, you’ve made my day with that comment! Thank you. And re the ‘side by side’ diptychs, do you know what, I miss doing them. It was so much fun to play around with different images and make meaning from the pairings. It’s a lot of work because to do it well, you need to gather a lot of images to make potential matches. But it’s also better suited to urban places I think, with lots of variation. That said, I would like to do it again at some point.
Diptychs. Thats the word. My mind went blank for a moment. You inspired me with your original 52 series to pickup a camera again. And ive got lazy the last few years with covid/no travel.
I think i feel sole reinspiration coming on! (London in February)
Yes, do it! London will be amazing to photograph. And walking around with a camera – a proper camera not an iPhone – makes you look harder and see more. It’s always worth the effort.
I used to be in asia every 3 weeks for business for years (until covid). Our last holiday was Morocco (dec 2019) 2.5 weeks, 4,700 photos (my wife wouldnt stop telling me off and to hurry up). I always carry a real camera. Lol
Morocco does that to you – too many great things to capture. But good to hear they’re all shot on a proper camera!
Oh it’s good to see you back – and taking me somewhere I’ll never visit. You’ve done that a bit over the years. I’ve missed your wonderful pairings and your luminous photos. Thank you. Which island next, I wonder!
Meg, taking people away on a virtual adventure is one of my favourite things to do – that you enjoy it so much too makes it infinitely more satisfying and joyful. So thank you for letting me know. And yes, another mystery island soon!
Lovely to hear from you Louise, and a real treat to read about Lord Howe Island and lose myself in your stunning photos! It has really cheered up a dark, wet winter’s morning in England. 🙂
Jess, so glad I could transport you somewhere sunny and warm 🙂 I don’t envy you the dark, wet and cold mornings – but at least it would feel like Christmas there (I’m imagining getting all rugged up and going out to sit in a cosy pub with a fireplace). A hot Christmas (we’ve just sweated through a heatwave in Sydney) never really feels like Christmas to me. Grass is always greener!
Definitely adding Lord Howe island to my travel wish list – looks wonderful! Fabulous photos and inspiring blog. Where can we find you on instagram?
Thanks Kate, so glad I’ve inspired you to visit this amazing place. And I’m @52suburbs on Instagram.
Welcome back, Louise! So great to see more of your fabulous shots. We went to Lord Howe back in the 80’s, it was a lot more basic then (no bars or restaurants, limited groceries) but it’s great to hear the beauty and serenity has not changed! We look forward to your next island adventure!
Many thanks Robin! Wow, that’s 30 plus years ago. But aside from the amenities having increased, it probably looks pretty much the same. Thank goodness!
Loved seeing your email pop up in my inbox and loved your pics and blog. I’ve always wanted to visit Lord Howe Island. Hopefully I’ll get there in the next few years. I miss seeing your diptychs but these images are all so lovely that I don’t miss them too much! Glad you had a wonderful working holiday in paradise.
Megan, thank you! I really hope you make it to the island soonish but in the meantime, I’m happy to provide some virtual travel at least. And re my diptychs, like I said to someone else, I miss doing them. I’ll have to do some more 🙂
Louise I couldn’t believe my luck when I opened my computer and saw your blog. I was only thinking of you and your wonderful photography two days ago, and wishing you would recommence posting. A beautiful location such as Lord Howe Island is no doubt a photographer’s delight. I am hoping to visit there next year and can’t wait now that I have seen your shots. Thanks again for sharing your talent.
Thanks so much Diane 🙂 How funny I was in your thoughts so recently and then bam, here I am! Really hope you get to Lord Howe next year.
Love your photos Louise and will happily read future posts. Thank you for sharing. The light on the island looks amazing!
Kim, thank you! It makes the world of difference to know people like you and the others here appreciate my posts so thank you so much for saying 🙂 And yes, the light on Lord Howe is pretty wonderful.
I still haven’t given up on the idea of going to LHI.
Great to read your blog Louise, see your gorgeous take on the place.
You mentioned another island!?
Yes please. XxXx
Thanks Gaylee! And yes, if you can swing it, go!! I know you would absolutely love it and get so much out of it. Another island coming up soon…
The light the light! Lord Howe has been on my bucket list for quite some time, you’ve made it essential with your images. They capture the essence perfectly. Keep the blog posts up, I do really enjoy them. Merry Christmas to you and Coco. Di x
Di, thank you so much, and thanks for the encouragement to keep posting 🙂 MC from myself and Coco (who’s moved to Brisbane recently, leaving me with a bad case of empty nest syndrome!) to you too x
Another great set Lou. Love your travelogues.
Thanks very much Stu! Lovely to know people appreciate them 🙂
Welcome back!
We enjoyed a beautiful relaxing holiday week there a good few years ago, so definitely agree with you. Love your enjoyable blogs, keep ot up
Pat, so glad to hear you’ve experienced the island. And thank you for the cheer on!
We’ve missed you Louise, welcome back.
Thanks for sharing these beautiful photographs and insights into your travels to Lord Howe. I would love to visit, and will put it on my must-do plans for the coming year.
Please keep sharing your adventures and sublime photos. The ones of the birds are truly incredible. A bird in flight, there’s something mesmerising about those images.
Warmly,
Jen
Jen, thank you for welcoming me back and for your lovely words! I hope you make it to the island soonish. And yes, birds in flight are endlessly compelling – I’m pretty obsessed with capturing that iconic shape and the sense of freedom that birds embody.
I live here at Lord Howe Island and you have taken beautiful photos – I have looked at them time and time again.
Your other photos are interesting too – have you put them into a book,
Thanks Valerie, and I’m so glad you like my photographs of your beautiful island. I’m so intrigued with what it would be like to actually live there. No plans for any book at this stage but you never know…
So glad that you’re still blogging – yes, people still read these posts! Absolutely stunning photos as always. Please keep them coming. I too miss the 52 Suburbs and subsequent iterations thereof. Your writing and photography are a delight!
That’s very kind, thanks Trish! And it’s very reassuring to know people still read blog posts, so thank you for saying. I’ll keep going! 🙂
What a “you beaut” surprise, a pleasure to read you again. Agree with Di/Dec 20th, the light is delightful. A few days stay is better for exploring than a quick tour. Look forward to your next. Happy Christmas, Frederick Hepworth
Hello Frederick! Yes, the light is incredible on the island isn’t it? And you’re so right, you need some time to absorb a place and ‘get your eye in’ to really do it justice. Merry Christmas to you too.
Thanks Louise, you have provided a reminder of pre-covid times I didn’t expect – yes you have been missed. How lucky you are to be able to enjoy such a beautiful place, mixing work and pleasure.
Many thanks Jo, so lovely to be missed! And yes, being able to combine work and pleasure is pretty much nirvana for me. Here’s to more I hope!
Loved your photographs of LHI especially as planning to go there.
What was the guest house you went to photograph?
Hi Cheryl, exciting that you’re planning a trip there. I photographed the interiors of Ebbtide Apartments.
Oh, thank you for that, I will certainly seek them out!